Pétanque & Pastis

Paradigm in Antibes

It was just nine days ago that Rick & Joslyn disembarked in Calvi from their week-long cruise around Corsica aboard the sumptuous Paradigm, with tales of gastronomic meals, costume parties, water sports, and thoughfully planned itineraries.  When we picked them up from the Port of Nice, they mentioned that Paradigm was on her way to Barcelona with another group of lucky guests of Ted & Arline, the owners of the luxury yacht.  We were also told that Paradigm would be heading to Antibes afterward, and we assumed that it would be moored in Port Vauban here in Antibes, which is the largest pleasure craft port in Europe.  With the arrival of Dave’s brother, Mike, yesterday, and our imminent departure to Burgundy, we didn’t expect to be around to see it while it was here in Antibes.  But, lo and behold !  A quick glance out the window, and then a double-take, and then a closer inspection with the binoculars, brought Paradigm clearly into view – right in front of our apartment.  It’s too bad that we didn’t know how to get a hold of Ted & Arline to invite them over for a glass of champagne, or maybe a Pastis.

Calvi – True Birthplace of Christopher Columbus ?

We took in more spectacular scenery along the winding coast as we made our way further north to the spectacular seaside resort of Calvi, our final destination on this Corsican vacation.  Calvi is a Riviera-style resort with a lively promenade full of colorful cafés & restaurants, a lovely yacht harbor, a 2-mile stretch of white sandy beach with shallow transparent water that slowly eases out toward the impressive 15^th-century Genovese citadel sitting in all its glory high on its rocky promontory.

While Ajaccio boasts of being the birthplace of Napoléon Bonaparte, Calvi boasts of its own native son, Christopher Columbus, who was, by their account, born in a house right in the interior of the citadel in the year 1436.  They have a lovely square named after him, Place Christophe Colomb, and they hold a festival in his honor each October.  There seems to be no doubt that Christopher Columbus was Genovese, and Corsica was ruled by the Genovese for six centuries, so who knows…  However, I think they should have to “duke it out” with Genova, Italy for this particular distinction.

After a short drive north to L’Île Rousse for lunch at one of the beach restaurants, we returned to Calvi and spent the afternoon swimming and admiring the amazing scenery all around us.  We got our exercise by strolling along the Quai Landry under the palm trees, and by meandering through the steep, narrow, cobbled streets of the citadel.  We had a great dinner at a restaurant called EAT, which sat just at the foot of the citadel.  The fusion of Asian and French cuisines was excellent on this warm night under the stars on the quiet terrace.  EAT (Epicurien Avant Tout), 15, rue Clémenceau, 20260 Calvi, tél: 04.95.38.21.87.

The Bay of L’île Rousse

The picturesque bay of L’Île Rousse is surrounded by red granite rocks which serve as a base for a lighthouse built in 1857 and another Genovese watchtower.

Once again, time is short, and all we were able to do is have lunch and a short stroll along the seaside promenade here in L’Île Rousse, but I wouldn’t mind spending a little more time here and maybe participating in some water sports the next time around.

The 15^th-Century Citadel in Calvi

The Shallow Sea Stretching out toward the Citadel

Massive Bastion Protecting the Citadel

The 15^th-Century Genovese Citadel in Calvi, Corsica

Stopover in Porto, Corsica

A dip in the sea was our first order of business when we arrived into the picturesque village of Porto yesterday afternoon.  We felt safe from ne’er-do-wells, thanks to the protection of the 1549 quadrangular Genovese watchtower overlooking the sheltered Golfe de Porto.

Porto’s Marina is situated in a small estuary populated with sports and fishing boats, and can be reached by a small colorful footbridge.  Apparently, the Marina provides the departure point for nautical excursions into the Golfe de Porto and to the Réserve Naturelle de Scandola, but, unfortunately, we won’t be around long to take advantage of it.  I guess that will be a good excuse for a return trip to the area.

The Marina in Porto

The Footbridge to the Marina in Porto

Corsica - Les Calanques de Piana

Our first stop this morning was a hike around the Tour de la Perata, the Genovese watchtower sitting atop the black granite headland known as the Pointe de la Perata.  This tower was built in 1608, around which time over 60 such towers, both square and round, were built around the perimeter of the island of Corsica by the Genovese to keep a watch out for invading pirates and other bad guys.  They are mostly all still standing in one form or another, some in much better shape than others, and some in nothing more than ruins. Apparently, there are some nice hikes starting from this point, but we just toured around the tower and took in the views of the sea and the beautiful Îles Sanguinaires before continuing on our way.

Our drive along the northwest part of the island today took us through the beautiful, colorful granite rock formations of the Calanques de Piana.  The interesting formations and all the nooks and crannies, known as tafoni, are the result of the effects of water and sweeping winds over all these years.

Some of our stops today included a swim and a picnic on the beach, a photo op for a large flock of goats crossing the street, short visits to the villages of Cargèse and Piana, and several breaks for taking in the beautiful views all along the way.

Les îles Sanguinaires

Genovese Tower Beyond the Beach

Goat Crossing

The Road through Les Calanques de Piana

Unusual Rock Formation in Les Calanques de Piana  

Vista Point in Les Calanques de Piana

Heading to the West Coast of Corsica

After a relaxing beach day yesterday at the nearby Plage Palombaggia, and hanging out in lively Porto-Vecchio for one more day and night, we headed out this morning with a goal of seeing the west coast of Corsica, just north of the historical city of Ajaccio, which we spent some time visiting on our last trip to the island.

Our first stop was in familiar territory in beautiful Bonifacio, where we stopped for an alfresco lunch at a restaurant called Vista Da Rocca, overlooking the bright white cliffs and the recognizable Grain de Sable against the azure Mediterranean Sea. 

Invitation for a Swim in Bonifacio

After lunch we took an impromptu dip into the irresistible crystalline water before heading back to our car by way of the colorful harbor, where, much to our surprise, we spotted Paradigm ! 

Paradigm in Bonifacio

  

Beach on the route des îles Sanguinaires

We made it to our hotel on the route des îles Sanguinaires in plenty of time to explore the beach, take a short swim, and to watch the sunset over the rocky red islands, the largest of which (the Grande Sanguinaire) is home to an 1840 lighthouse and the ruins of a Genovese tower.

Les Îles Sanguinaires 

Corsica – Playground of the Rich and Famous

Labor Day weekend found us making a return trip to Corsica.  A four-hour ferry trip, with our car in tow, got us into Ajaccio around 11:30am.  Our first order of business was to deliver my cousin, Rick, and his lovely wife, Joslyn, to Porto Vecchio to meet up with Joslyn’s sister and brother-in-law, Arline and Ted, for a week-long tour around the island aboard their amazing 115-foot Benetti-built luxury yacht, named Paradigm.  In addition to the four of them, and the captain and crew of 6, they will be joined by two other lucky couples.  Since they were not planning to meet up until tomorrow, we were able to take our time getting to Porto Vecchio, with plenty of stops for swimming, picnicking, and sight-seeing on the way.

After we settled into the Hôtel Alcyon, we spent some time wandering around the colorful streets of Old Porto Vecchio.  We came across the Bastion di A Funtana Vechju, which houses an art gallery with lovely views overlooking the harbor, and here is where we got our first glimpse of Paradigm, the largest boat in the port.

We decided to head down to the port to say hello to Arline and Ted.  They were gracious enough to invite us aboard for wine, hors d’oeuvres, and a private tour of their amazing yacht.  Dave and I were exceptionally nice and polite – we tried not to be ourselves – just in case one of the other couples had to cancel out for their week-long cruise, and they might need us to substitute for them.  Alas, our good manners went for naught, but we still really enjoyed hanging out like the rich and famous for a short while.

Genova, Italy

A 3-hour train ride, along the Mediterranean and Ligurian coasts, from Nice, France, to Genova, Italy, was the start of our holiday break.  What better way to celebrate the 4^th of July weekend than to visit the homeland of Christopher Columbus himself?  The Genovese try hard to convince the world that there is no longer any doubt that Christopher Columbus was indeed a Genovese.  With no confirmed birth date and no confirmed place of birth, his status as a native son of Genova is very much in doubt, in my humble opinion.  In any case, the city of Genova seems pretty certain that Columbus spent his childhood and adolescence in the Ponticello house in Genova, along with his parents and his four brothers and sister.

The Ponticello House - Home of Columbus

 

World War I Monument in Genova

 

The Stock Exchange in Genova

 

Genovese Castello

 

The Old Port of Genova

 

The Aquarium at the Old Port of Genova

The Saint-Véran Cemetery in Avignon

On our stroll under the shady trees of the Saint-Véran d'Avignon Cemetery, we came across "the grave of Marie-Maurille Virot de Sombreuil (1774-1823), known as Mademoiselle de Sombreuil, who saved her father from the guillotine in September 1792. As the death sentence was about to be carried out, she climbed on the scaffold, called the crowd to witness and begged the executioner to spare her father. He offered to pardon the condemned man if she agreed to drink a glass of blood from the previous beheading. Which is what she did. Her epitaph on the tomb: Victim of filial love she only lived to console and succour the unfortunate. Her wounded heart could only be healed by death. Her reward was in Heaven."¹ While Mademoiselle Sombreuil's body rests in peace in Avignon, her heart resides in an urn at Les Invalides in Paris, where her father had previously served as governor.

¹ Secret Provence, 2006, by Jean-Pierre Cassely.

The Grave of Mademoiselle de Sombreuil

The Avignon Bridge

A weekend jaunt to Avignon was quick and easy aboard the TGV from Antibes. The 3-hour train trip got us into town with plenty of time to take in all the aspects of the legendary Avignon Bridge before heading out to dinner.

Although, it’s known as the le Pont d’Avignon after the well-known children’s song, the real name of the famous Avignon Bridge is le Pont Saint-Bénézet after the legendary little shepherd boy who, as a result of his miraculous strength, was able to fulfill his architectural destiny in the form of this 12^th-century bridge across the Rhône River.  Unfortunately, Saint-Bénézet died in the year 1184, never getting to see the completion of his life’s work.  The chapel housing his tomb was built atop the bridge in its last phase of completion, where his remains were kept until they were moved to Avignon’s lavish Celestine monastery in 1674.  Through the course of time, weather, and the turbulent Rhône River, the bridge has been greatly damaged, and only the chapel and four out of the original 22 arches remain, jutting out only part way into the river, never reaching the other side.

Saint-Bénézet with his Eponymous Bridge

Pont Saint-Bénézet on Rue des Teintures

Pont Saint-Bénézet jutting into the Rhône River

 

They Got Married !

After a very busy and successful stateside séjour, we are back in Antibes just in time for the summer festivities, starting very close to home. Our next-door neighbors, Julie & Rico, proprietors of the nearby Italian restaurant, Pane e Vino, got married ! They had their Civil Wedding Ceremony on Thursday at the Mayor’s Office, followed by un Cocktail on the lovely terrace of Restaurant Le Bastion, just two steps from our apartment. The champagne flowed and the hors d’oeuvres kept coming while the music wafted through the warm evening breeze, as Julie & Rico made the rounds while handcuffed to one another.

The Terrace of Restaurant Le Bastion

Un Cocktail at Le Bastion

Monsieur et Madame Sandonato in Handcuffs  

The Wedding Party in front of the Antibes Cathedral

The Church Ceremony took place today at the Cathedral of Antibes in the Old Town. There must have been a lot of weddings today because there seemed to be a line to get into the church for their service, so they and their entourage had to wait their turn. They went in with Julie holding a bouquet of flowers with both a French flag and an Italian flag, while Rico was holding onto an Italian flag. Some other members of their entourage seemed to be holding onto Italian flags also. Dave and I were not invited to the church ceremony today, but we were encouraged to stop by to greet them in front of the Cathedral. 

So, we’re curious as to which of the two dates they consider to be their wedding anniversary? Is it the civil ceremony or the uncivil, I mean, religious ceremony?

The New Bride and Groom

A Glimpse into our California Séjour

Our friend, John Schallau, with the United States Coast Guard Reserves, invited us for an evening on the San Francisco Bay aboard a Coast Guard Cutter to watch the KFOG KaBoom ! Fireworks. We ate chocolate chip cookies and sipped on delicious hot chocolate with marshmallows, which hit the spot in the cold San Francisco night.  In addition to enjoying the fireworks display, we spent the evening patrolling the Bay to make sure that the private boats stayed outside a certain radius of where the fireworks were being set off under the Bay Bridge.

How Weird Street Fair

The Water Bar

"My Vacation in France" by Flat Stanley

I stayed with Daniel's aunt and uncle, who live in Antibes, France.  Antibes is in the south of France on the French Riviera.  I had fun floating on my back in the Mediterranean Sea.   Here you can see the castle where Picasso lived and worked.  Now it is a museum with many of his famous works of art.

I enjoyed walking on the sandy beach, and watching all the colorful sailboats.  Sailing is a very popular sport here in Antibes.

Sometimes I got tired from all the walking and sailing and swimming.  It felt nice just to lie on the beach and relax with the other sunbathers.  Sometimes there are jelly fish in the sea, but I didn't see any on my visit.

We took a very fast train from Antibes to Paris. Sometimes the fast train goes 250 kilometers an hour, which is about 150 miles per hour. It took 5 hours to get to Paris from Antibes, but it didn’t seem that long because we had a picnic on the train, and it was a lot of fun.

In Paris we stayed in an apartment in a neighborhood called Montmartre. We had a view of a famous church called Sacre Coeur right from our window. The church looks like a giant wedding cake.

We walked along a famous Parisian boulevard called the Champs Élysées.

At the end of the famous boulevard we saw a huge monument called the Arc de Triomphe, which is 164 feet tall, and you can climb to the top of it.

We also visited the Eiffel Tower, which is 1,051 feet tall. It used to be the tallest building in the world until the Empire State Building was built in 1931. Then the Empire State Building was the tallest building in the world.

We went to an island in the middle of the river in Paris to see a church called Notre Dame. There is a really good book and an old movie about the church called “The Hunchback of Notre Dame”.

After all our walking and sightseeing in Paris, I got really hungry, so we went to another little island in the river in Paris where we found delicious ice cream in lots of different flavors. It was really refreshing.

One day we took a train from Paris to a city in Normandy called Rouen. This is where we saw a famous church that has been in lots of paintings, especially by an artist named Claude Monet.

This is the airline I used to fly to France. I had to get prepared to fly back home to California.

After a wonderful vacation in France, I had a great flight home. And I had a window seat this time !!